What to Do and See in Buen Retiro Park in Madrid

Visitors to the Spanish capital must check out the former royal gardens at Buen Retiro Park in Madrid. This 350-acre park includes a boating lake, stunning gardens, and iconic buildings showcasing art exhibitions. Buen Retiro Park was originally constructed as a royal retreat area around a new church in 1505. In the 1620s, the gardens were expanded, and in the 1630s, the palace was upgraded and the grounds improved for the royal family’s recreation. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021, and nowadays today,it is open to the public and has undergone several modern improvement projects. Visitors and residents of Madrid congregate in the park these days because of its large trees and plant life, earning the park the nickname “Madrid’s lungs”. Visitors to the park today can hike around the massive grounds, view plants and wildlife, including about 15,000 trees, exercise using the workout amenities scattered throughout the park, or even rent a boat to cruise the lake. The park also houses several buildings that contain museums and performance centers, including a theater that puts on daily puppet shows. Visitors can stretch their legs in the park’s many gardens, including Jardín de Vivaces, Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez, Jardines del Arquitecto Herrero Palacios, Cat Mountain, which has been recently restored, the Rosaleda Rose Garden, and Parterre Francés, in which you can behold the oldest tree in the city, nearly 400 years old.  Weekday mornings, the crowds thin out, but many of the puppet shows and other events are in the evenings, when the park comes alive.

Retiro Park Lake and Rosaleda 

Buen Retiro Park offers a charming and tranquil reprieve from its bustling urban surroundings. One particularly elegant and peaceful aspect of the park is the Rosaleda del Retiro, an rose garden containing a leafy avenue through which visitors can stroll. In addition, the Rosaleda del Retiro includes the famous Fountain of the Fallen Angel.

The Retiro Pond, another distinctive area of Buen Retiro Park, is a large artificial lake on which rowing boats can be rented. You can also rent a solar-powered boat and let the sun do the work on frequent clear days. The lake is known as a prime sunbathing spot. The boats can be rented in the Estanque del Retiro Municipal Sports Centre, which offers several other activities for all ages, such as a solar-powered classroom and canoe lessons for young people ages seven to 26 provided by the Madrid Canoeing Federation.

Crystal Palace

The Crystal Palace, a large iron-framed botanical garden and annex of the Reina Sofia Museum, was partly inspired by London's Crystal Palace. This wonderful palace directly neighbors the Velázquez Palace and was built in 1887 as a greenhouse to showcase the flora and fauna of the Philippines, then a Spanish colony. Daniel Zuloaga’s colorful tilework can also be found on this palace, constructed with a brick base and iron and glass plates for the walls. It was restored in 1975 and is now surrounded by chestnut trees, next to a small duck and goose pond on Buen Retiro Park’s beautiful grounds. The palace today holds a series of temporary art exhibits. 

Feria del Libro and Paseo de Coches

The Paseo de Coches (Carriage Walk) is a wide, paved road where visitors can stroll, skate, bike, or saunter past several Retiro Park landmarks, including the Fisherman’s Cottage, the artificial mountain, and the monument to General Martínez Campos. The Paseo de Coches is a main landmark in its own right and serves as a major artery in the park. 

Each year in late spring, Paseo de Coches hosts the Madrid Feria del Libro (Book Fair). Booths are set up along the path, with booksellers alongside the authors themselves selling their work. Readings and talks are held in various locations near the path running through the park. Traditionally, the Madrid Book Fair opens on the last Friday of May and lasts 17 days, ending in mid-June.

Velázquez Palace 

Buen Retiro Park in Madrid also includes the Velázquez Palace, which is an exhibition hall hosting various art shows and galleries. It was first constructed in 1883 and designed by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, who also designed the neighboring Crystal Palace. The Velázquez Palace is unique for its large iron and glass domes that let natural light in, as well as colorful tile work designed by renowned Spanish ceramist Daniel Zuloaga. Both Velázquez Palace and Crystal Palace were inspired by Joseph Paxton’s Crystal Palace in Hyde Park, London, and were both designed by Ricardo Velazquez Bosco, who named this palace after himself.

The Buen Retiro Park also hosts a full schedule of free concerts in the summer at the bandstand in Alcala street.

The Casón del Buen Retiro

The Casón del Buen Retiro (Buen Retiro Mansion) is one of just two buildings that survived the construction of the nearby Jerónimos neighborhood, which eliminated much of the original Buen Retiro Palace. The Mansion today houses the Prado Museum’s Study Center, featuring a massive art library where visitors can admire detailed Luca Giordano frescoes adorning the vault above the massive former ballroom. These paintings were created by the legendary Giordano in 1692. 

Casa de Vacas

Near Retiro Park in Madrid is the Casa de Vacas Cultural Center, which houses art exhibitions and puts on plays and concerts for the surrounding community and visitors. The “House of Cows” got its name in 1874, when the first Casa de Vacas was built as a dairy. A fire destroyed the original building, which by the 20th century had become a famous dancehall called Pavillón. After the area was rebuilt, Casa de Vacas became a cultural center, with an outdoor terrace exhibition hall of sculptures and other art, and a 150-seat theater for plays.

The Retiro Park Sculpture Garden

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I take to Buen Retiro Park in Madrid?

Sturdy walking shoes, weather-appropriate clothes, and water, particularly on warm days. Everything else you need is in the park waiting for you!

Is Buen Retiro Park fully accessible for people with disabilities? 

Yes. Most paths in the park are paved, and all public structures are fully accessible. 

When is the best time to bring children to Buen Retiro Park?

Anytime! Depending on factors like the weather and events such as the annual Madrid Book Fair, crowds could be an issue for easily overwhelmed children. Mornings usually have sparser crowds, again depending on the event schedule. 

Author: Patricia Sánchez

Recepcionist at NH Collection Madrid Suecia

My name is Patricia. After 10 years of experience working at a hotel reception, I have enjoyed every encounter with diverse clients from all around the world.
Working in a vibrant city like Madrid can be both challenging and rewarding. From managing reservations to recommending local restaurants and shops, there’s always something new.
After an intense day behind the front desk, nothing compares to a relaxing stroll through Retiro Park. Our green oasis, the heart and lungs of our city, provides the perfect escape.
With beautiful gardens, serene ponds, and majestic trees, Retiro Park is an ideal place to unwind and recharge.